The revolution will not be pasteurised

Gradually getting through the Observer Food Monthly – it’s like very good chocolate for me, not something to be gobbled down but, rather, to be slowly savoured – and just came across a feature on Bill Hogan and Sean Ferry of the West Cork Natural Cheese Company, makers of the superlative Desmond and Gabriel cheeses. The cheese-making partners have been in conflict with the department of agriculture since 2002, when their cheeses, all made from raw, non-pasteurised milk, were impounded. They eventually won their case – but it was not without much difficulty and hardship. Read the whole story – The revolution will not be pasteurised – here and then take yourself down to your nearest cheesemonger and buy a large slice of Desmond and Gabriel in tribute to a couple of cheesemakers who fought back.

Caroline

Caroline

Food writer. Broadcaster. Blogger. Author. Married to Eight Degrees Brewing. Member of the Irish Food Writers' Guild, founder of Irish Food Bloggers Association and co-author of Sláinte: The Complete Guide to Irish Craft Beer & Cider (New Island)

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7 Responses

  1. martin dwyer says:

    Hear Hear!(And it is terrific cheese)

  2. Suzy Byrne says:

    Caroline Do you know anything about the Irish woman, Catherine Moran making the deserts who is featured in the magazine – she won one of their awards.

  3. Maria says:

    Great story and completely inspirational. It must have been a very difficult struggle. I most certainly will remember these boys the next time I am in Sheridans!

  4. While I was in Ballymaloe, Darina brought Bill Hogan in to tell us about his battle. I spoke to him briefly afterwards, while buying a chunk of Desmond, and he was incredibly charismatic, in a very softly spoken kind of way. A most impressive man – and two most delicious cheeses,It was the first time I had come across Catherine Moran’s name, Suzy, but what a great idea! There’s a list of her Pots of Delicousness here – I think that her Dark Chocolate Truffle on a Soft Caramel Sauce and Lavishly Luscious Lemon Posset sound right up my street. Something to look out for the next time I’m in London! I did get an invitation to visit Ludlow, once, from a rather interesting man that I met on a flight from Casablanca to London – wonder if he’d still be up for a visit?!

  5. mmmmmmmmm cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese, am all about the nbot pastuerised cheese!!!

  6. Jo Crisp says:

    Caroline,Nothing to do with the Observer Food Monthly , although I’m reading it too, but I made the chocolate peanut butter squares from your 4th March post. Is the base supposed to be more of a cake or more of a shortbread? Mine seem to be both; the edge ones are like shortbread and the middle ones more cake-like.Also, loved your post about your London trip. I love those places too. I love Books for Cooks and it is very difficult to leave without a purchase. I like the Grocer on Elgin but rarely buy anything as I always think I should go home and make it myself. I saw Trinny Woodall in there one day, the only time I’ve ever recognised a celebrity. I’ve been to the Petersham Cafe but only had soup and bread in the tearoom (all the atmosphere and a fraction of the price of lunch!) . It’s just a magical place. I’ve only been to Borough Market once as its a bit of a schlepp from Sussex.I’m running the London Marathon next week and what will keep me going to the end is that we are having lunch in the River Cafe the next day as a reward. Actually we were going to go to Petersham but as you found out, it’s closed on Mondays.Love your blog but would like you to post more often!Jo

  7. Lovely to hear from you, Jo. The base of the Chocolate Peanut Butter Squares, with both the self-raising flour and the baking powder, is supposed to be more cake-like. Maybe the edges got slightly overdone? It’s all too easy to do, especially if you have – as I do – an oven that just does fan. My one in NZ was both a fan and conventional oven and that was definitely the best of both worlds. How did it taste?Am so jealous that you actually managed to get food at the Petersham Café! You should have seen us – we did that long walk out from Richmond train station, already hungry and looking forward to some treats at the end. It was terribly disappointing when we arrived to find it wasn’t open – that walk back seemed twice as long!I would definitely agree about the food for sale at the Grocer On Elgin – nice for ideas for things that are easy to make at home – but it wasn’t the worst place for a prolonged lunch and catch-up with my former Ballymaloe class-mate. The staff seemed to be terminally disorganised downstairs in the café so we had the place to ourselves throughout lunchtime. Perfect for talking, not so good for getting served.Regarding me posting more often on Bibliocook, Jo, I would agree with you. I would love to write more here but, alas, working at Urru four days a week from 8.30am to 6.30pm (at the coalface, not a computer face!) doesn’t leave me with much time in the evenings, especially as I’m a 25 min drive from work. I have to condense my blogging into Mondays and Tuesdays mainly. But thank you for the compliment!Best of luck with the marathon – and I hope that the River Café lunch is suitable motivation!

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