In season: Upsidedown Rhubarb Rose Cake

When I was small, we had rhubarb growing in the back garden. Whatever variety it was – we had sourced the crown from some friend or relative so there were no labels – it grew gigantic stems, as thick as a baby’s wrist, topped by enormous leaves that we thought looked like child-sized umbrellas. I was never a fan: it was so stringy that it had to be peeled before cooking and I was always extremely dubious about any fruit or vegetable that did such a good job of shining the inside of the saucepan in which it was cooked.

Now, all grown up, I just can’t get enough of rhubarb. When in season, this Irish vegetable – yes, it’s a stem vegetable rather than a fruit – is easily found at the market or supermarket if you don’t have enough in your garden and it is always reasonably priced. Over the years, the stringiness that so offended me as a child seems to have disappeared. I grab it each time I see it on sale (the crowns in our garden are still unproductive) and make sure to stash enough in the freezer to keep us going even when it’s not available. I love Rhubarb Jam, Rhubarb Crumble is a great favourite around here, my mother makes a great Rhubarb Tart, sometimes with added apple, and it’s a great fruit to use in cakes.

This cake I put together for a bring-your-own-pudding dinner at the Writer‘s house recently. It’s quick, easy and ever so gently scented with rosewater. Do not use too much – you don’t want your cake tasting of soap! If you don’t have rosewater, and it is easily found in delis or Middle Eastern shops, then you could always substitute a teaspoon of dried ginger or the rind of an orange.